Manufacture of shoes



June 30, 1936.

c. D. TURNER MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed Aug.

Patented June 30, 1936 UNITED "STATES H MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Chester D. Turner, Haverhill, Mass., assignor to United Shoe Machinery Corporation, Paterson, N. J a corporation of New Jersey Application August 14, 1935, Serial No. 36,178

8 Claims. (01. 12-442) This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes and is herein illustrated with reference to improvements in shoes of the open-shank type, often called sandals, and to improvements in methods of making such shoes.

In an open-shank shoe the means securing the lasting margin of the forepart or vamp portion of the upper to the bottom of the shoe is quite likely to give way in the immediate vicinity of the junction of the shank and forepart as a result of the excessive strains to which the upper is subjected in that locality as the shoe is being worn.

An object of the present invention is to overcome this liability and to that end novel provision has been made for insuring additional security in the attachment of uppers to the'bottoms of shoes in the region near the junction of their shank and forepart portions. As herein illustrated, this additional. security is insured by forming a vamp for i=3 an open-shank sandal with tab-like portions which extend beyond the opposite lateral edges of the rear extremities of the lasting allowance or lasting margin of the vamp, and firmly an -v choring these extending portions to the insole by means of lasting fastenings or otherwise after the lasting margin has been secured in overlasted position upon the insole.

The invention will be explained with referenc to the accompanying. drawing, in which 36 Fig. 1 is a perspective view of an upper assembly for an open-shank sandal, showing particularly the reinforcing tabs or extensions by means of which the vamp portion of the upper is adapted to be securely attached to the insole;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of'an open-shank sandal inv course of construction showing the upper assembly as it appears after its marginal portion has been. secured in over-lasted position upon an insole on a last and after the reinforcing tabs have been anchored to the insole; and Fig. 3 is a sectional view of that portion of the bottom of a finished shoe which is located near,

50 the quarter is shaped to extend forwardly only a short distance beyond the heel portion of the shoe and it is provided with an ankle strap It. The vamp It) is cut short so as not to extend rearwardly beyond the ball portion of the shoe. The one- 55 piece vamp and quarter lining I4 is coextensive shoe so that no upper material will be present 5 in the shank of the finished shoe. The illustrated vamp Ill consists of a toe portion I8 and a rear portion comprising a plurality of crossstraps 2!]. The cross-straps 2!) which, as shown,

are stitched to and connected by the lining i4 10 will later be separated from each other at opposite sides of the forepart of the shoe by the trimming away of those portions of the lining which lie between them.

For the purpose of reinforcing the attachment 15 of the vamp; to the insole of the sandal at the rear extremities of the lasting margin of the vamp, those portions are provided with lateral tab-like extensions 22 which, as indicated herein, consist of tabs which may, conveniently, be cut from a strip or tape of closely woven fabric and stitched to the vamp l0. The illustrated tabs or extensions 22 are each of a width such as to overlie the two rearmost cross-straps 20 and conveniently they are interposed between 25 these straps and the lining M and are secured to the vamp by the stitches which also secure the straps to the lining. The tabs 22 extend beyond the edges of the lasting margin sufliciently to enable the free ends of the tabs to be overlapped upon each other upon the center of the ball portion of the insole of the sandal.

In making a sandal embodying an upper such as that above described, the upper is assembled with an insole 24 upon a last 26 (Fig. 2), the upper is lasted, and the lasting margins of the vamp and the quarter are secured in overlasted positions upon the insole in any well-known manner. As shown, these margins are secured to the insole at the opposite sides of the vamp by means of wire staples 28, while at the toe the vamp may be cement lasted to the insole. The lasting margins of the quarter, as shown, are secured by means of tacks 3|] at the heel seat and by means of staples 32 forwardly of the heel seat.

After the lasting margins of the vamp and quarter have been secured to the insole the tabs 22 are laid with their free end portions overlapped upon the ball of the insole and preferably, but not necessarily, they are secured to each other and to the insole by means of adhesive such as pyroxylin cement. It may be found desirable to form the tabs 22 from pieces of adhesive tape in which case the adhesive carried by the tabs Will serve to secure them to each other and to the insole when the tabs are overlapped and pressed against the insole. After the tabs 22 have been properly positioned upon the insole, a metal shank stiffener 34 is applied to the sandal and located with its forward end portion overlying the overlapped ends of the tabs 22 and the forward end portion of the shank stiffener is secured by a fastener such as the tack 36 to the insole, the tack passing through the overlapped end portions of the tabs 22. The fastener 36 and the clamping action of the shank stiffener firmly anchor both tabs to the insole. The anchorage is made even more secure if cement is used for securing the tabs in place. Other fastening means, such for example as a wire staple or a rivet, may be employed if desired. It is preferable to employ a last having a. metal bottom for the purpose of clenching the inner end of the tack or other fastener which is employed at the forward end of the shank stiffener. If no metal plate is employed upon the last, however, the tabs 22 may be secured to each other and to the insole by means of cement, for example, pyroxylin cement. As shown, a tack 38 secures the rear portion of the shank stiffener 34 in place. The space within the overlasted margins of the vamp may be filled by means of a suitable filler, as indicated at 40 in Fig. 3, after which an outsole 42 may be applied and secured by means of cement or otherwise to the overlasted margins of the upper and to the tabs 22. By thus forming a cement bond between the tabs 22 and the outsole the attachment of the vamp to the shoe is still further strengthened.

The tabs 22 being firmly secured to the insole by means independent of the lasting fastenings, the tabs serve effectively to reinforce the lasting fastenings in the vicinity of the break between the shank and the forepart of the shoe bottom and thus insure against any tendency of the vamp to pull or break away from the insole in that locality.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

1. That improvement in methods of making open-shank shoes which consists in forming an open-shank vamp with portions extending beyond the opposite lateral edges of the rear extremities only of its lasting allowance, assembling the vamp with an insole on a last, lasting the vamp and securing its lasting allowance to the insole, and thereafter securing said extend,- ing portions to the insole to reinforce the shoe against strains tending to separate the rear portions of the vamp from the insole.

2'. That improvement in methods of making open-shank shoes which consists in securing laterally extending tabs to the lasting margin at opposite sides of the rear portion only of an open-shank vamp, assembling the vamp with an insole on a last, lasting the vamp and securing its margins in overlasted position upon the insole, and securing said tabs in overlapped relation to the insole to reinforce the shoe against strains tending to separate the rear portions of the vamp 7 assembling the vamp with an insole on a last, lasting the vamp and securing its marginal portions in overlasted position to the insole, overlapping the extending portions of said tabs upon the ball portion of the insole, locating a shank stiffener upon the insole with its forward end portion overlying said overlapped portions of the tabs, and attaching said shank stiffener to the insole by means of a fastening extending through said overlapped portions of the tabs and anchoring them to the insole.

4. That improvement in methods of making open-shank shoes which consists in stitching to the rear portions of the lasting margins of an open-shank vamp a pair of tabs which extend outwardly along the edge of the lasting margin, assembling the vamp with an insole on a last, lasting the vamp and securing its marginal portions in overlasted position to the insole, overlapping the extending portions of said tabs upon the ball portion of the insole and securing them to the insole, and securing an outsole to the overlasted margins of the upper and to said tabs.

5. An open-shank shoe comprising an insole, an. outsole, a vamp having its lasting margin secured in overlasted position on the insole and having the rear portions of said margin terminating in the immediate vicinity of the break between the shank and the forward portions of the soles, and portions extending beyond the opposite lateral edges of the rear extremities of the lasting allowance of the vamp secured to the insole by means independent of the lasting fastenings for reinforcing the attachment of the vamp to the insole.

6. An open-shank shoe comprising an insole, an outsole, a vamp having its lasting margin secured in overlasted position on the insole and having the rear portions of said margin terminating in the immediate vicinity of the break between the shank and .the forward portions of the soles, a pair of reinforcing tabs secured to the rear extremities of the lasting margin of the vamp and having their free end portions anchored to the insole for reinforcing the attachment of the vamp to the insole in the vicinity of the break between the shank and the forepart of the sole.

7. An open-shank sandal comprising an insole, an outsole, a vamp comprising a plurality of cross-straps having their end portions secured in overlasted relation to the insole, and tabs stitched to the rearmost cross-straps and extending beyond the ends of said straps, said tabs having their free extremities secured in overlapped relation to the insole.

8. An open-shank shoe comprising an insole, an outsole, a vamp having its lasting margin secured in overlasted position on the insole and having the rear portions of said margin terminating in the immediate vicinity of the break between the shank and the forward portionsof the soles, tab portions extending beyond the opposite lateral edges of the rear extremities of the lasting allowance of the vamp secured to the insole by means independent of the lasting fastenings for reinforcing the attachment of the vamp to the insole, and a shank stiffener having its forward end portion overlapping said tabs and secured to said insole by means of a. fastening extending also through said tabs and thereby anchoring the tabs to the insole.

CHESTER D. TURNER. 

